Driving in Cambodia

Glad They Don’t Sell RV’s in Cambodia

Becoming familiar with the customs and laws of a foreign country takes time. Driving here takes a change of attitude. One thing for which I am truly thankful, there are no RV’s in Cambodia. This will make sense as I explain the rules of the road here in Cambodia. I am the one person in our family who has dared face traffic in a motorized vehicle. I have driven a moto, or 100cc motorcycle, around the city of Phnom Penh. I have experienced the challenge of negotiating Cambodian traffic.

For those of you who drive “real motorcycles” this may sound lame, but you have to drive here to understand.When I first put on Facebook how interesting my thirty minute commute to MCC was, my sister commented “it will get old.” I seriously doubt that. Here is why.

The rules of traffic differ greatly here to what most people know in the US. I think there is a different understanding of the purpose of the road. In both cultures the road exists to get us safely to our destination. In the US rules govern the road and bestow equality to all users. In Cambodia rules and a mutual respect governs the use of the road and size of vehicle determines right of way. It is the unwritten custom of respect which complicates travel here. Everyone yields respect to the driver in front of them paying no mind to those behind them.

Everyone, no matter how they are traveling, uses the road and gets the “I’m in front of you” right of way respect. Thus pedestrians cross full speed traffic knowing that oncoming traffic will swerve to miss them. This is as hard to do as a pedestrian as it is for the motorist encountering them. I once was annoyed that the two SUV’s in front of me were slowing down so I saw enough space to pass in between them. No more do I move between them than I figure out what is slowing traffic. There are two pedestrians now standing between the two SUV’s. Everyone gets the I’m in front of you right of way.

Everyone shares the road: pedestrian, push cart vendor, bicyclist, moto, tuk-tuk, auto, truck and semi. This may seem a disproportionate system of usage, but the amount and volume of larger vehicles has only recently increased. The increase in autos have made the roads more difficult and unwieldy.

There are other rules of the road here that make driving interesting. One; there is an additional lane on the shoulder of each side of the road. If traffic is too busy to cross, one simply starts into oncoming traffic on the shoulder then crosses it as an opening presents itself. This lane applies mostly to motos. Cars just pull straight into oncoming traffic using the I’m in front of you right of way rule.

A second rule or lack thereof is with intersections. I have yet to see a stop sign or a yield sign. Where major streets meet each other there are traffic lights. All other streets use the size of vehicle right of way. It is not uncommon to be driving down a major road and have a car pull out right in front of you, not even looking to the left. They assume they have the bigger vehicle and are in front of you, others must let them in.

So when I leave the house in the morning I cannot just get on a major road like Mao Tse Toung Bvld. and ride with the flow of traffic into work. Heaven’s no. There is not one second I can relax because any vehicle, mostly cars, can pull out in front of me without a second thought. Every intersection sorts the haves from the have nots.

Of course that does not keep the disrespectful adolescent on a moto from cutting in front of an SUV, and thus gaining the right of way. It adds to the entertainment of the commute as the horns are sure to go off.

As prosperity or something more sinister has crept slowly into Cambodia, more and more people are driving autos. And of course in a country where size gives you right of way, the vehicle of choice is an SUV.

So every time I encounter a traffic jam of vehicles all unwilling to give the right of way to others, one thought occurs to me. Thank heaven they don’t sell RV’s in Cambodia.

Waves, squid and jewelry

Last weekend we went to the beach. We went to Sianoukville and stayed at a guesthouse called Orchidee Guesthouse and spent our time on Ochheuteal beach. Orchidee Guesthouse was very nice and we had a large room with air conditioning! It had a nice pool in which we used late at night when we were back from the beach.
We left Saturday morning very early; I had to get up at 6:30. We went to the Mekong Express bus leaving area near Oresey market. While waiting people tried to sell us sunglasses and magazines, only a taste of what was yet to come. We got on the bus and started the four hours long bus ride. Much to my relief the bus had an onboard bathroom (it was even western). There was also a television which started out showing the ever popular Cambodian karaoke but then moved on to the Titanic. Four hours later we arrived and got on a tuk tuk to go to our hotel.
As soon as we got to our hotel we changed into our swimming suits, packed towels, sunscreen, and water and headed to the beach, which was within walking distance. Upon arriving at the beach we decided that it was time for lunch. We made our way to The Frog Shack and ordered seafood. Fish, shrimp, and squid were our orders but when they arrived we had varied emotions. My mom and I had ordered fried squid and fries only to receive barbequed squid and mashed potatoes. This squid was not exactly calamari as we expected and we gladly shared food with the rest.
Afterwards we went and found a table and chairs amidst the Cambodian people that we had heard were free. My mom and my siblings and I went into the water while my dad guarded our stuff. After getting wet my dad called us in and said we had to move or pay five bucks! So we walked down to the tourist area of the beach and found a restaurant that would give us chairs and a table if we bought something. So my dad sat down and ordered a coconut and we hurried back into the waves.
Soon after we went into the water my dad was bombarded with people selling him stuff: jewelry, being shaved, pedicures, and such were the items and services they were selling. Otay, otay, otay (no, no, no) was his response. They left but not without trying to sell him something. One lady trying to sell bracelets and headbands was particularly set on selling him something. She gave him a “free” bracelet and said she would be back later to sell stuff to me and my sister and mother. She did return only to ask an outrageous price for something we had seen for less than half what she was asking down the beach. Her main selling point was that she had given my dad that “free” bracelet. I decided against buying them and ran back into the water only to have to come ashore again and be offered a new price. This was the same price except for two headbands. Sneakily, she tied a bracelet to my wrist thus making me buy the headband. Acacia paid for the second one.
We spent some more time on the beach but soon a storm came along and brought us back to the guesthouse. We arrived at the guesthouse only to watch the storm quickly pass by. Now it was time for supper, hopefully an improvement from lunch. Supper was yummy and everyone enjoyed their meal. Acacia’s pineapple fruit shake came in a pineapple, which she loved. The thing that was the best though was the peacefulness, after being in Phnom Penh for quite awhile. After supper we went back and swam until it was time to go to bed. We were all quite tired from the afternoon on the beach.
The next morning after eating breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant we headed back to the beach. After purchasing a shake we went back and enjoyed the waves. They were a little rougher so we tumbled some more but still had fun. We tried to build some sand castles but we did not have the adequate buckets and shovels and the waves destroyed them all. We headed back to the hotel to gather our bags, rinse off in the bathrooms and change into dry clothes.
We went to lunch at Starfish café. We enjoyed sandwiches, lemonade for some and shakes for others, and cookies. We browsed at Rajana, an MCC partner and craft organization, and then went to catch our bus back. After another four hours in the bus we arrived back in a rainy Phnom Penh and we were all glad to get to our dry home and grab some winks before another week of school and work. Everyone enjoyed our weekend at the beach and can’t wait for another.
-Janaya

Animals in Cambodia

You know I like animals, so I will tell you about the animals in Cambodia. Some of the animals in Cambodia look cute. Some look ugly. All of the cats are cute but some of the dogs are ugly. I wish I could pet them but I can’t because they might have rabies and none of them look healthy. So that stinks! I got to pet the cats at The Wagon Wheel restaurant. I also petted the cat at The Starfish restaurant, which was next to Rajana, a craft organization supported by MCC. I also got to pet the dog at our hotel at the beach. He was very soft! I got to see a kitten at school. It was just born because it still had its eyes closed. It was as small as a rat.
Mom won’t let me buy a cat because we couldn’t travel. But mom promised me I could get a pet like fish. One of the Geckos that we saw was in our sink. I wanted to catch it but did not know if it would bite. We have them on our walls and ceiling every night.
We hear frogs and big geckos at night. Mom and me want to see a big gecko, but they run very fast. Once we saw a toad at school. People here eat frogs. I will never ever ever eat a frog. But Austin wants too.
I once got to feed the elephant at Wat Phnom. I hope to ride on that elephant someday. I got to feed the monkeys peanuts at Wat Phnom Park. I almost got to pet a baby monkey. Some of the birds get captured and sold for pets. I wish I could get one but have no birdcage.
Our neighbors have fish. I am so jealous, seriously. We ate fish tonight for supper. But I didn’t get to pet it before it got chopped up.
Close to our road there are goats eating the overgrown grass and trash.
I miss my cats, Addie and Levi, so so so so much.

By Acacia Sachs

Biking in Phnom Penh

August 28

I’ve been biking to graduate school, or work for 21 years. Why stop now?

In PA, my ride in to work is about 3 miles; here it is about 3 kilometers. In PA, the ride has constant hills; I go down, only to go up again. Here the ride is completely flat. (I have always liked flat – like the rails to trails in Minnesota!) In PA, I ride hard, after all, it is my chance to exercise, and I arrive at work hot and sweaty. Here no one bikes hard. Neither do I, but I still arrive at work hot and sweaty! And yes, the first thing I do in both places is sit down in front of a fan to cool off!

In PA, I hug the right side of the road. No shoulders on Fileys or Grantham roads. Here I would desperately like to do that, but the inside curb is reserved for those for whom it is convenient to go “the wrong way.” So when approached by a bike or moto in my lane (a very western notion), I gradually move over towards the center.

The most convenient left hand turn here involves gradually crossing the road, whenever it is clear, and riding the wrong way, right next to the curb for a while. Then you make the turn hugging the inside curb. When convenient, I move back to my side. In the US, I follow the rules for cars, turning left from the inside and using hand signals. Here that sort of turn can be scary, because you find yourself in the middle of a completely unmarked intersection, everyone jockeying for their turn.

I’ve finally found the least stressful route to work – not necessarily the shortest. I had thought the worst of the ride would be the round-about, and crossing the railroad tracks. But traffic is so heavy in the mornings at this place that I get off my bike and walk – over curbs, through the fronts of street shops, and I move faster than everyone else! The worst part is my left hand turn at a very busy intersection, and I now plan to avoid that! I’ve ridden home ahead of a storm a couple times - now that reminds me of Colorado!

I’ve never felt comfortable biking even in sandals. The chemist in my likes closed-toed shoes! Here women bike in high-heeled, strappy sandals! No one wears tennis shoes – but so be it. I don’t really fit in anyway. I’m glad I packed mine.

Roseann

A School Week in the LIfe of the Sachs...

Thought I might provide you with a few more details of our weeks here, especially as the kids are now in school.

Cambodians arise early, while it is still cool, so by about 6:00 there are noises outside that begin to wake us up. Austin is often the first one up, then Ron. I manage to sleep nearly until my alarm, and then get the girls up. The cheapest breakfast cereal here is an Australian brand, and it is pretty good. But the kids are not big fans of cereal for breakfast, so Ron has graciously taken to cooking hot breakfasts. Janaya and Austin are particularly grateful, because in PA, no one got up with them until it was time to walk to the bus! So we’ve had banana muffins, pancakes and with an amazing find at the MCC office – waffles. The one cookbook we brought with is the new book my Dad’s family just put together. Ron uses my cousin Mike’s waffle recipe. The school van arrives at 7:20. Probably only takes about 5 minutes to drive to the kids’ school, and they get there quite early, where they hang out on the grounds until allowed in the building.

Ron and I are taking private language lessons for an hour a day, and then we try to study for a couple hours. Last week, I also went to the University on two separate days, and we spent two days at the MCC office meeting with others, welcoming new staffers, and taking care of business. We continue to work on home improvements - we get supplies at MCC, do the work, and then return the tools.

So far we’ve tried to be home everyday when the kids get home, which is 3:15. We give them water and feed them a snack, usually fruit, and then it is time for homework, not much different than anywhere else. Austin joined the middle school basketball team. I’m so proud of him for doing that. Not easy to run suicide drills in 85-90 degree heat, and humidity. It is also something that wouldn’t be so easy to take part in a big school like Northern, so this is a great opportunity for him. He has practice Wednesdays and Fridays, after school. Since he can’t take the bus home, we’ve been taking a motodup in to pick him up. Still aren’t driving moto ourselves. Austin is also excited to be playing trumpet in band this year. Instruments are rare here, but Logos has managed to bring together a few. Even in PA he was asking me to buy him a trumpet so he could learn another instrument. He is very excited about this. I’d say he is doing quite well with school!

Janaya keeps busy with a lot of homework. Khmer is challenging, and while it is only the first course, all the other students have been here for longer than her, so they have some of the basics already. I work with her on Algebra, just like in PA. Dad helps her in art. She has already found at least 3 good friends whom she eats lunch with.

Its back to reading books, and doing math flash cards for Acacia – again just like PA. I believe she has made many friends – but she doesn’t know their names. It is extra hard to remember names when they don’t sound like any other names that you’ve every heard before! She has swimming one day a week, which she will love. Last week they only got to jump in before a storm came in. She even got invited to a birthday party on Friday after school. There was pizza, cake and ice cream – standard for a US party, but a real treat for Acacia at this point in time!

On Thursday evening, Austin went to the all-Phnom Penh, English speaking, Christian middle school youth group. It was at a Christian school across town. Last week, Ron and Janaya and their tuk-tuk driver had spent an hour looking for the place in the dark, and never found it. So, I rode along with 3 tuk-tuks worth of middle schoolers, so that I could see where this school was. A loud and wild night for me – remember, Ron is the youth pastor in this family! Nevertheless, ice cream was part of the picture!

By Friday we are all tired. But this past week we had two new MCCer’s to our house for dinner. They are part of the one-year exchange programs that MCC sponsors for young adults. We’ve been here for 5 weeks, making us the hosts (and experts?) already. Wow.

Pictures from First Month

Takeo Province
Pool at Logos International School
One of three buildings at Logos International School
Living room in our new house
Front of our apartment building
Austin getting soaked
Acacia at the waterpark
Janaya getting soaked
Mom, Acacia, and Austin going down a waterslide at the waterpark
Phnom Penh Water Park
At the Royal Palace
Mom, Austin, Acacia, and Janaya in a tuk tuk
The family at the Royal Palace

This week we started school at Logos International School. A new year always brings nervous stomachs but this was probably worse than usual. We were surprised on Monday when the van was fifteen minutes ahead of schedule, but got into a pattern after that. Acacia went off to fourth grade, Austin to seventh, and me to ninth. We all found people to show us around and to hang out with. The school has three buildings with various classrooms. We eat lunch on the roof or at various tables across the school grounds. Lunches are a mix here. One day we had seaweed soup (which we couldn't handle) and another day, burgers and fries.

Classes are tough, but mom and dad said they would be the same in PA. High school is hard, and there was a lot of homework even on the first day. One class that will be a challenge is Khmer because I've never done it before. Khmer I for high schoolers is speaking and listening, thank goodness. Acacia is learning some writing, though. We practice with our housekeeper and our neighbors who are both happy to help us.

The classes are in a two day schedule, day A and day B. Classes are about one and a half hours long and there are four each day, not counting lunch and devotions. Every day is started with prayer and a short devotion. One class that I did not have in Pennsylvania is Bible and for me that means Old Testament Survey. Austin and Acacia have Bible too. I have art, chorus, Bible and biology on Day A, and Algebra II, Khmer I, English, and History (Renaissance - French Revolution) on Day B. Day B is harder than Day A.

There are people at our school from all different countries. Many people are from Korea, the Phillipines, lots of people from Cambodia and some from the United States. It is much different in some ways, and the same in others. One great thing about school is aircon (as it is called here), because we don't have it at home, and Mom and Dad don't have it at their work either, so we are lucky. Hope this tells you a little more about our life here.

Janaya